Where food stamps and foodies meet…

Some of you know that I’ve been troubled by the vast and widening gap between the foodie, vote-with-your-fork culture (think Whole Foods, heirloom tomatoes, artisanal cheese) and those who struggle to buy boxed macaroni and cheese. The last time I posted on this, there were some terrific comments on the issue — some from folks who were struggling to eat better despite the costs, some who reminded me that lentils cost less than feedlot meat, and some who reminded us all why it’s important to vote with your forks if you can (even if it means wearing 20-year old clothes).

I don’t mean to get all John Edwards “two Americas” on you again, but there is a terrific article in today’s Times on an unlikely place where the two worlds meet: the farmer’s market. The article looks at a part of one of my favorite topics these days, the farm bill, and how we might restructure it to make our citizens, rural economies, and environment a whole lot healthier.

Here’s the gist of the article:

  • In the past five years, the number of farmers’ markets in the U.S. has increased by 64%, from 2,750 to nearly 4,500. (this is good).
  • The existing farm bill currently includes 2 programs — the $15 million Seniors Farmers’ Market Nutrition Program and the separate $25 million Farmers’ Market Nutrition Program, both a part of WIC — that allow food aid recipients to buy fresh produce at farmers’ markets. As a result, the poor have been some of farmers’ best customers, and farmers have incentive to bring their produce to communities that otherwise would see nary a carrot. (this, too, is good).
  • The USDA and the Bush administration have both proposed rules that would increase funding available for food aid recipients to buy fruits and vegetables, thereby encouraging poor people to eat more healthfully (a very, very good thing, although…)
  • The way things are going, most of those purchases will likely be made with the debit card technology, meaning that farmers’ markets will could lose the business to corporate grocery stores. If that happens, then a bunch of those other benefits (strong local agriculture, decentralized food systems, healthier local economies, etc.) could get lost — and many of the small farms who are the backbone of the “real food, not processed junk” movement will be shut out.
  • A solution would be to support small farms in such a way that they can join the 21st century with card-reading technologies (a boon to credit-card-wielding foodies, as well), and to continue to support small farms with what the article’s author calls “other ingenious projects to help small farmers thrive.”

Stepping outside the idea of policy and health for a moment, I also like the idea of having people of different backgrounds come together at farmers’ markets, because it means that people will come together as a community. As a community! Think about it. Most of us live on streets where everyone nearby earns roughly the same amount of money, has roughly the same “toys,” is in more-or-less the same lifestage. How often do we really come across people of vastly different means? Of vastly different educational backgrounds? Understanding where we are in a community — the wider community, where not everyone looks like us and drives the same car and thinks about things in the same way — helps to humanize us. And we could all do with a little more humanity.

So how about we all meet at the farmer’s market? Let the two Americas become one, and everyone become a little healthier. What do you say?

Soapbox over. Well, almost.

One other fact that the article mentions is that “only 56 percent of people eligible for food stamps get them, and most of those recipients don’t know that the stamps can be used at farmers’ markets. A reason often given for the great success of the WIC farmers’ market program is the nutrition education that comes with it.” Seriously? Only 56%? When it can help families buy food that wasn’t made by Popeye’s? I’m surprised. Or maybe not. I guess there’s a stigma there, that’s not there with the fast food meal. Which is a shame, especially when the food assistance can be used buying healthful foods that make our communities and our world a little better.

(might you be eligible for food assistance? In Massachusetts, where I know lots of you are located, the income eligibility is roughly $26,000 annual income for a family of 4, but I’m pretty sure that you can qualify during temporary periods — like after a baby is born, when you’re relying on just one income). You can find out where to call to learn more about food stamps here.

6 Responses to “Where food stamps and foodies meet…”


  1. 1 margalit May 10, 2007 at 4:11 pm

    Food stamps in MA are based solely on the poverty rate. It never takes into account the extremely high cost of living, thus negating the program’s success in helping people find food, healthy or otherwise. Unless MA takes into account the cost of living, like they do in other states, most people are never going to be eligible for food stamps. My family is not, although we pay over 75% of our monthly budget on housing alone. We have to rely on food pantries to get us through the month, and that means no fresh fruits and veggies most of the month. It angers me tremendously that we can’t use the farmer’s market because ours is so expensive and caters to the wealthy families in my city. I feel that the poor, who survive on unhealthy diets of rice and pasta, are the ones that again suffer the most.

  2. 2 Jennifer May 10, 2007 at 5:04 pm

    I work for a small non profit that provides literacy services to migrant families. It kills me that the families that come here to pick our food can’t often afford to purchase it.
    I called our local WIC last year and asked about using Wic vouchers at our local food market and people can. I asked the amount of the benefit per month and was told $3. Three dollars! I couldn’t believe it. For a month, for a family. It’s astounding that families can get peanut butter, cereal and other processed foods at much greater expense and are shorted when it comes to fresh fruits and veggies.

  3. 3 Sis B May 11, 2007 at 2:27 am

    When I left my ex, my weekly grocery budget became my monthly grocery budget. I stopped shopping at Whole Foods, where I didn’t need to read labels as diligently, to shopping at a regular grocery store which was 30 minutes closer to my home. I remember the first day I shopped there, I read the label on EVERY loaf of bread, trying to find one that had neither high fructose corn syrup or hydrogenated oil. I couldn’t find a single one.

    I qualified for assistance but I didn’t take it (pride, you know). I shopped at farmer’s markets for veggies (they’re usually more fresh and less expensive than the grocery stores). I was apalled that the more affordable foods in the store were laden with HFCS and trans fat. It was difficult finding food that I could afford that I knew wasn’t poisoning me.

    I love your concept of the community cross-section that can be found at the farmer’s market. And I’m surprised to find out that WIC can be used there. Something just feels better about eating local produce.

  4. 4 Lemon Stand May 11, 2007 at 3:03 pm

    Another great article! When we had our fourth child we definately had to use food stamps, WIC an d food vouchers. Luckily enough, in the town we were living in at the time, had a farmers market coop with reduced prices for those on food stamps.

  5. 5 Expat Chef May 13, 2007 at 3:25 am

    I find the best prices on produce at the farmer’s market. Today, I spent $1.50 on a massive head of fresh picked spinach. It would have cost twice that at the store. I got three heads of Romaine for a buck apiece. Aparagus for one-fourth the price at the store. We eat easily twice as many veggies in the “season” as we do any other time of year.

    The biggest issue is that the food system itself is way out of balance. The farm bill does need to be fixed. In so many ways. Co-ops could help support the bulk purchases from farmers. There is a lot that could be done to make healthy and local available. It’s up to each of us who are aware to try and make those programs happen. Don’t wait on the farm bill. I am joining a group that is trying to build a coop to bulk purchase local foods for schools. We can do this.

    I would imagine,that you could put one card-swiping terminal in for a market(not each farmer), bought by the market area, and could somehow work it to be able to make the exchanges. That would help.

    Our market is a wonderful mix of people. I love going. Every Saturday there is a band, sometimes people dancing, a fountain for the kids to play in, a real neighborhood with locally-owned businesses. I know I am very lucky.

  1. 1 Assets and the Farm Bill « Asset Almanac Trackback on May 23, 2007 at 3:23 am

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