My, my. Whole Foods is getting a lot of press these days. The Whole Foods saga is an important story, even if you, like I, don’t have a Whole Foods anywhere within 90 minutes. It’s an important story even to those of us who cringe when we see the per-pound prices of their edamame salads, made-on-the-spot sushi, or wild atlantic no-dyes-added salmon. It’s an important story, because Whole Foods is a market leader. Where it goes, lots of other retailers may go, as well. This story may well have implications for what, and how, many of us eat in the future.
If you didn’t happen to be awake early Sunday morning, nursing a pee-soaked baby while listening to the radio, you may not have heard this Marketplace Money interview with Whole Foods founder John Mackey, in which he explains new efforts they’re making to promote local agriculture: welcoming direct-to-consumer farmer’s markets in their parking lots, establishing a $10 million annual budget to support local, small-scale agriculture, and changing job descriptions to encourage more purchasing from local suppliers.
If you didn’t hear that interview, you may not have done a little digging, and discovered the extent to which these changes are being made in response to Mackey’s smackdown with Michael Pollan. I won’t detail all of that (though you should, absolutely, read Pollan’s book. Have I mentioned that?). However, it’s worth looking at this smart, tough letter Pollan wrote to Mackey last year. Pollan’s letter, which Mackey posted on his blog — kudos to him for being so open — chastises Whole Foods for selling only the IDEA of local, decentralized agriculture, rather than truly local products.
And if you weren’t aware of that brouhaha, you might not have gone out of your way to watch this webcast of a live debate between Mackey and Pollan at U.C. Berkeley, or paid much attention to this article in today’s New York Times about whether Whole Foods has lost its way.
The possible future implications for you? The fact that local foods are getting so much press, and that a market leader like Whole Foods is making such an investment in helping promote local agriculture, means that it may — may— soon get easier for you to get locally grown food…in your supermarket. Which could mean more nutritious food, as well as food that is fresher, better tasting, and likely grown with fewer chemicals.
People are watching where Whole Foods is going. You can bet that Wal-Mart is watching it, and possibly the produce manager at your local Safeway or Piggly Wiggly is watching as well. Do you want local agriculture at your local supermarket? Then let your produce manager know that you’re watching it, too.
It’s not impossible for supermarkets to embrace local agriculture. My babysitter, the huge-hearted Becky Darling, runs a small family farm here in southern Vermont. Her summer sweet corn is some of the best I’ve ever had. And while I love going out of my way to her farm stand, I don’t have to; our local Price Chopper sells Darling’s corn fresh, every day, during corn season. It’s a huge commitment for the supermarket chain; produce managers go out of their way to refresh their supply of Darling’s corn on a daily basis. Price Chopper also now guarantees a price that makes it worthwhile for the Darlings to sell to them. Other supermarkets in the area won’t do this. It’s too hard, too much effort, too unlike the normal way of doing business. But Price Chopper will, and it’s possible that your supermarket could do something similar, as well — especially as they see market leaders doing this.
At any rate, it’s a story to watch.









